The History of the N-1 Deck Jacket
Military jackets seem to have a particular knack at being re-contextualised within a wider fashion landscape, seemingly more so than any other pieces of militaria. From the MA-1 to the M-65, jackets from as early as WWI have become so popular that it’s almost difficult to see how they were used in the first place, and perhaps the latest jacket to gain this status is the N-1 deck jacket. Notable for its flattering, boxy shape and super-warm lining, let’s break down how the N-1 came to be, and why it’s so popular in todays menswear landscape!
Origins of the N-1:
During the First World War, the jacket of choice for the Navy was another style now renowned in menswear - the Peacoat. Recognisable for its longer cut and woollen construction, the jacket was used by the Dutch as early as the 1800s and popularised by the British Army, who constructed theirs from tightly woven melton wool to combat the freezing winds at sea. The jackets were used extensively through WWI, with a tight waist and flaring around the hips making them warm yet moveable. Though issued by the US Navy until 2020, the Peacoat fell out of style at the start of WWII, as it became clear a new jacket was needed for this conflict.
As the United States was in a period of intense economic downturn when they became involved in the Second World War, the reliable Peacoat was not only outdated for its design, but for its costly production too. With millions of new servicemen in need of outfitting, the rush to build a superior jacket was on, and the first step was taken by modifying the Winter Combat Jacket. Now popularly known as the Tanker Jacket, this piece was usually worn by Armoured Vehicle Crews, and was favourable for its thick, canvas construction and its characteristic ribbed neckline.
While the Tanker worked wonderfully on land, it was clear changes needed to be made for its naval variant. Lined with wool and with exposed knit cuffs, the jacket degraded easily, making it dangerous around heavy machinery as fraying could get caught in the equipment, and moreover simply wasn’t warm enough to protect troops in the high winds they were experiencing in the Atlantic. So, to combat these faults, the variation of the N-1 we know today was born.
With a shell changed from cotton twill to Bedford cord, the N-1 was now much more water resistant than its predecessor, and with a double-face Alpaca lining replacing the wool, the jacket finally had the insulation it needed to brave the open ocean. Ribbed cuffs were set-in to the sleeves, protecting the usually damage-prone area, and a drawstring was added for a tighter fit and better protection from harsh weather. To finish the piece, a combined zip and buttoned front closure made sure the N-1 was sturdy and protective, making it a workhorse that lasted the entirety of the war.
Popularisation of the N-1:
The N-1 was immediately iconic, partly for its no-frills design which allowed for a huge amount of customisation, and also due to its sheer ubiquity after the war. It was common in the post-war period to see ex-service members strolling the streets in their N-1, likely adorned with custom patches or stencils.
Today, the N-1 has become a staple of heritage wardrobes, largely for the same reasons it was popular in the 1940s and 1950s. The silhouette is less technical than many other famous military jackets, meaning it can blend into casual outfits without feeling too much like a costume, but is smart enough to be eye-catching. The versatility of the N-1 is its strong suit, and its warmth and sturdy construction have cemented it as a sought after and iconic jacket.
