Behind the Seams: Lavenham Jackets, inside one of Britain's last clothing factories
One of few single factory production brands left in the U.K, Lavenham is a small yet mighty machine within the fashion space. After reading countless exposés on the masses of unethical outsourcing, it is rare but hopeful to see a British factory brand showing everyone how it can be done. With an honest focus on their environmental output, we had the pleasure of visiting Lavenham and seeing just how they do it.
The Suffolk based brand was founded in 1969 by Mrs Elliot who saw a gap in the market for a new type of horse rug, the former was historically made from wool, making it heavy and long-drying. Mrs Elliot had the genius idea of using nylon, creating the world’s first nylon quilted horse rug. By 1972, the brand was making their iconic nylon quilted gilet, originally intended for horse riding. However, its brilliant practicality transitioned it into a much-needed every day staple.
The current Lavenham factory stands just six miles from their original location and has been designed with exact purpose. With 102 employees and a 16-point production process you might be expecting an organised chaos. But instead, we were met with an organised perfection. Each room had space to breathe, whether that be the fabric, quilting, cutting, or assembling rooms. And every artisan was mesmerising to watch at their unique specialty. It became clear why Lavenham is revered for their quality.
Their easy authenticity means they don’t shy away from our probing environmental questions even stating themselves that “sustainability is a loaded word”. They are aware that they are still creating something in this world, but they try to do it in the best way they can. Whilst they utilise other fabrics (predominately sourced from British fabric mills), they are perhaps best known for their patented Lavenster. It is a 100% recycled polyester fabric made from post-consumer water bottles, known for its water resistance and durability.
As part of their transparent approach, Lavenham continues to use up as much legacy and unused fabric as possible. Any non-recycled polyester used in production is from the fabric archives, adhering to a policy of low waste, using up what they already have where they can. They continually work with suppliers to improve in more challenging areas, using 85% recycled wadding, the highest percentage currently possible with modern production techniques. Off-cuts are used up within their patchwork designs, and they offer a lifetime repair service. They like the challenge and claim there is next to nothing they cannot repair. The factory is also entirely powered by their solar roof (bar a few sunless weeks a year).
Consistently pushing the boat on what a gilet can be, Lavenham frequently works with other industry tastemakers to explore all possible combinations for the humble jacket, leaving no nylon unturned. From collaborations with YMC to Phoebe English to lifestyle publication Monocle, Lavenham are always looking at how they can combine their love for technicality with new ideas. As they make the clothing in house, brands have the option to customise everything. From the choice of fabrics to the design of the stitching, the garment pattern, and the hardware; whatever idea a brand comes to them with they can find a way to make it happen.
Lavenham firmly has their finger on the pulse of the fashion industry. They run a great British company (successfully) within an ever changing and ever daunting fashion space as ethically as they can. They understand the need for an authentic product that is firmly rooted in practicality, whilst having the balance of innovation and style. They get what excites a customer with tasteful designs and sumptuous collaborations to feed the fashion hungry. We believe that there is a Lavenham for everyone.
