Heritage Fashion: Tracing the pieces that shaped the modern wardrobe

We’ve been seeing the term “heritage fashion” pop up more and more in the fashion industry, but what does it actually mean? It may be tempting to define it as ‘vintage inspired’ but the reality is much richer. Everyone will have pieces in their wardrobes without even realising, so lets have a look at a few.

The Jean
Perhaps the most obvious crossover between heritage and the wider fashion world is the jean. Originally created for miners, jeans have transitioned into one of the most ubiquitous items of everyday wear we can imagine.

Worn extensively throughout WWII as functional workwear, jeans were co-opted by younger generations in the 1950s as a mark of rebellion, with many turning away from the more traditional forms of dress. A working class staple, jeans took over, and overtime became the wardrobe staple we know it as today.

As the quality of mass market denim has degraded, heritage brands like FULLCOUNT and ONI have filled a niche. Traditional selvedge fabric and rich, rope dyed indigo cotton evoke the heyday of denim, and this refocus on authentic production is what makes these jeans so beloved.

The Hoodie
The first sweatshirt was invented in 1926 by American football player, Benjamin Russell Jr. After a softer alternative to the woollen jerseys Russell came up with the comfier, cooler, cotton sweatshirt becoming mass produced by the 1930s.

Champion, then known as Knickerbocker Knitting Company, was the first to produce the hooded sweatshirt in the 30s. While intended as sportswear it was later sold to New York warehouse workers, helping them to keep warm in the cold months whilst still allowing for comfortability and movement.

During the 1970s the hoodie took on a symbol of rebellion. With its hood providing anonymity it was adopted by those in New York’s underground music scene. Worn by MCs, graffiti artists and b-boys, this allowed people from more marginalised parts of society to feel safe.

Rocky (1976) saw the hoodie shoot into the mainstream, sported by Sylvester Stallone as the titular character. The hoodie became a symbol of hard work and determination to the masses. A simple design became an everyday American inspiration.

The T-shirt
Like most wardrobe icons, the T-shirt has origins in military practicality. One of its first instances of mass production was in the late 19th century for British sailors who began wearing white flannel t-shirts under their woollen uniforms to keep warm. By 1913, the US Navy had the white cotton knit T-shirt become part of the official uniform, however, this was only as an undershirt.

It wasn’t popularised to wear a T-shirt without an overshirt until the 1950s. Marlon Brando famously wore a white t-shirt in Kowalski’s A Streetcar Named Desire (1950), followed by James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause (1955). These two iconic films and stars catapulted menswear into a new more relaxed direction.

Advances in silk-screen printing in the 1960s meant that graphic tees gave their wearers endless possibilities for self-expression. Whether you were a fan of a band, politically enraged or just wanting to say something ironic, the graphic tee allows its wearer total freedom of self-expression, which is something we still see heavily in use today.

Every t-shirt you see today comes from the heritage behind it and a design that has faced very little change since its conception.

The M-65 Jacket
Possibly the most iconic of field jackets, the M-65 has remained timeless for generations. First created in (shock) 1965, it was used by the Americans in the war against Vietnam, taking the place of the M-51. The jacket’s built-in hood could be folded away into the collar, its 4 pockets were sizable, velcro instead of buttons on the cuffs, and internal buttons so that an additional liner could be added for warmth if needed. The transformative nature of the M-65 meant it could be used time and time again in different climates.

In 1960s America, military style was becoming a fashion trend due to the Vietnam war and the easy access to military surplus stores. Both worn as a statement for and against American militia, the jacket was now mainstream. Seen on Robert De Niro in Taxi Driver (1976), Woody Allen in Annie Hall (1977), and Al Pacino in Serpico (1973), the jacket further cemented itself as a symbol for rebellion and masculinity.

Branching out from its traditional olive green, a woodland camo version of the M-65 was created in 1981, with the military continuing to make new shades for different environments. Very little changes were made to the M-65 during its time in the military, from which it was retired in 2009.

Retired from combat but not from our wardrobes, the versatile M-65 lives on forever. Contemporary brands have taken inspiration time and time again from the M65’s silhouette, integrating its iconic features on overshirts and lightweight jackets.

The Chelsea Boot
The ever sleek but practical Chelsea boot has faced little reinvention from its conception. Born in the Victorian era, British inventor J. Sparkes Hall designed for Queen Victoria the first pair of leather boots with an elasticated side. This easy to slip on style made the boots instantly popular and by the mid-century they were a commonplace shoe.

In the 1950-60s the shoes had a rebirth in the UK. Becoming associated with King’s Road in the Chelsea district, it coined its name, ‘the Chelsea boot’. Stars such as Jean Shrimpton, The Rolling Stones and The Beatles were spotted wearing them contributing to the minimalist, sleek silhouette popularly associated with the period.

Due to their simple silhouette Chelsea boots can be paired with casual and formal outfits making them a wardrobe staple still seen today.

The Chino
The Chino was first used as military trousers in the middle of the 19th century. The distinctive no-pleat design was implemented to save fabric due to limited resources. When American soldiers returned from the Spanish-American war in 1898 they continued wearing their chinos in their everyday lives, bleeding the trouser into the mainstream.

By the 1950s the chino gained a new middle-class reputation amongst college students. The trouser became part of the Ivy League look. Smarter than jeans and more comfortable than the suit trouser, the chino became cemented into the smart casual dress of the American man.

So why has the Chino lasted? Well, it is light and breathable, perfect for warmer days but can also be made with a heavier twill for the colder months. Their range of cuts and colours make outfit options endless.

Conclusion
There’s a clear connection across all of these heritage icons that have held their space in our wardrobes. Practicality. In modern life full of countless and pointless ‘innovations’ there is an undeniable allure to designs that are built to last and look even better over time. So why fall for half hearted fads when you can wear something that looks effortless and stands the test of time? “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”.