Iconic Denim Jackets: Where they come from and how to wear them

A good denim jacket is essential for most wardrobes, with their versatility making them perfect choices for almost any occasion. Wear one with a t-shirt in summer, or layer one underneath a coat on colder days; their lightweight construction and variation in style has stood the test of time. This amount variation, though being a huge pull for denim jackets, also has its downsides, with their slight differences suiting much better for some, but no clear way to tell without trying them on. If you’re in the group that doesn’t know their triple pleated blouse from their trucker, fear not, as we’ll be diving into the history of these jackets, and exactly how to style them.

Type I
Denim jackets as we know them can be traced to the second half of the 19th century, with the fabric produced as a hardwearing, practical alternative for more expensive textiles. Used as part of a mining uniform, the Triple Pleat Blouse was introduced in the 1870s, and is the basis for the ‘big three’ mainline denim jacket styles. Though important, its production wasn’t formalised until 1905, which is when production began on the legendary Type I.

Instantly recognisable for its shorter shape for easier access to the waistline and single chest pocket construction, the Type I also features shorter arms and a cinch-back, which ensured the jacket fit well and avoided it being snagged on machinery in its industrial uses. The Type I was produced until 1953, enduring both World Wars with subtle but sought-after changes like the addition of donut buttons and the removal of the pocket flap.

We find the Type I the easiest to style, as a length that falls just below waist level and the ability to cinch means its silhouette works with a wide range of clothing; casual or otherwise. Wear it with a classic pair of jeans or some casual trousers, pop on a hoodie or tee for the warmer days, and you’re set. The Type I is the ideal way to add a pop of heritage to your wardrobe without feeling overdressed.

Type II
After a reign of almost 50 years, the Type I was replaced in 1953 by the Type II, which made a few key adjustments that set the jackets apart. Knife pleats and a boxy fit carry over, but importantly the cinch back is removed and a secondary chest pocket is added, making the shape less rooted in workwear, and making for a more symmetrical appearance.

American youth that was looking for new ways to express themselves through fashion. Hollywood icons like Elvis wore the jacket in films that defined a rebellious youth, and the bluecollar jacket became a symbol of a changing cultural landscape. At the same time, Ivy League students were adapting more casual wear into their usually dressy outfits, and the Type II’s symmetry made it a perfect candidate for bridging the gap between workwear and collegiate.

With the amount of influence the Type II has on modern menswear, its incredible to think that it was only produced for 9 years in its original run before being replaced. Culturally, we associate the jacket with smarter outfits because of it’s use in Ivy, and a great place to look for inspiration is Japan. Dressing it with a shirt, tie, and slacks can be a great way to bring some workwear into a smarter look, but because of how boxy the Type II is, it’s probably the hardest to pull off, so it might be worth trying before you buy.

Type III
The Type III jacket is probably the most recognisable denim jacket ever produced. Radically redesigned from its predecessors, the Type III is the archetypal ‘trucker jacket’, featuring triangular stitching down the front, pointed pocket flaps, and a much slimmer and longer shape than the previous designs. The jacket has has a huge history, and therefore variations are numerous from piece to piece, with some having hand pockets or alternate collars.

Brought about in the 1960s, the Type III has since become synonymous with contemporary American culture, being worn by everyone from Ronald Reagan to Britney Spears. There are very few clothing items that are more instantly identifiable with a single country. The grunge wave in the 1990s was also a big moment for the Type III, and music legends including Kurt Cobain adopted the look. Undoubtedly, this jacket has had the most impact on mainstream fashion compared to any other denim item, second only to the classic pair of jeans.

Though the Type I might be the easiest to style, the Type III is perhaps the most versatile overall. Its timeless shape allows it to be worn with clothes from any era well, and its ties to mainstream popular culture means its a jacket that won’t immediately lock you into a specific category of dress. Pairing it with skinnier trousers makes for a great 90’s look, while wearing it with wider jeans can evoke a more western feel. We’ve chosen to go for the latter, as the jacket is so intrinsically ‘cowboy’ that we couldn’t resist!

Lee Denim
The Type I, Type II, and Type III jackets have indeed made their mark on the history of denim, but there’s a specific brand who’s consistently left out of the conversation, and we think they deserve their flowers. Lee, founded in 1889, was originally a grocery and shipping company, before expanding into overall production in 1913. By the 1920s, they had created a lasting denim icon with their Buddy Lee doll, a lovable marketing tool that has since become an essential piece for many vintage collectors. It was in 1925 though, when Lee approached cowboys and rodeo riders to produce their 101 shape, that the first proper cowboy jean was created.

Over the course of the next 50 years, Lee would grow into a distinct denim brand, with a much more obvious Western influence than their competitors. Jackets like the 191J and 101J exude a charm specific to Lee, with incredibly boxy shapes to allow horseback riding, and a construction from a more forgiving, sanforized denim. Just like the Type II jacket, Lee’s shapes were also brought into the mainstream in the 1950s, and can be spotted in iconic photos of Marlyn Monroe and James Dean.

Today, Lee Archives continues the legacy of classic Lee, with Japanese made denim used on original patterns. These styles are absolutely ideal if you want to dive into the deep end with vintage inspired outfits, and paring them with classic historical pieces like Wabash trousers or military Henley’s makes for striking looks.