An Interview with FULLCOUNT founder Mikiharu Tsujita

Since its foundation in 1993, the Full Count brand has been at the forefront of Japanese jean production, and has become a household name among those interested in heritage style. Standing as one of the members of the seminal Osaka Five, Full Count are known for their incredible attention to detail in both historical accuracy and production quality.

Mikiharu Tsujita, the mastermind behind it all, first delved into denim with fellow Osaka Five alum and Evisu founder Hidehiko Yamane, but left shortly after to pursue his own vision. With such a rich history with jeans, we sat down with Tsujita to ask him what exactly drew him to the world of denim in the first place.

As the company grew, they introduced various new models and refined their production process, including the construction of a ‘model factory’ where shoes were made from start to finish under one roof. This was a first of its kind for the time, and their boots are still made there to this day.

“I have been fascinated by British rock bands since I was in Junior High School, and I thought the jeans they wore were cool.”, he began, “In my late teens, I came across an old pair of Levi’s, and I realised that these were real jeans, and I have been captivated ever since.”

Tsujita’s obsession with pre-70s Levi’s is where many people – collectors and designers alike – were first introduced to high quality denim. The brands domination over jean production up until the late 60s set a gold standard for the garments; a standard which is still admired today. Vintage clothing in general is a clear point of reference for Tsujita, describing the influence of these historical models on his jeans as a “particular comfort, which is one of the charms of old Levi’s.”

He elaborated, “In the 1940s, especially in the post-war period, there were many things in America, England, and France that became the origin of today's casual wear… Fashion has changed with the times, [but] I aim to create products that do not change with the times.”

It's clear that the Full Count brand prides itself on this painstaking recreation and reimagining of historic fashion, and there’s a clear desire for the products to last. It seems that by the day, the public’s desire for a more considered approach to fashion grows, and heritage brands have filled this niche naturally. ‘Slow Fashion’, a term coined by Kate Fletcher in 2007, has become a concept guiding many labels to create long-lasting and environmentally friendly garments. Heritage wear, because of its slower construction process, and often the fact that it takes design and ethos inspiration from the natural world, has become a style inextricably linked to this movement.

“I am particularly interested in communicating through clothing the importance of taking good care of things, something that has been lost with fast fashion.” Tsujita explained. “Japanese people in particular have been undermined by the consumer culture from the 1960s to the 1980s, and since the bursting of the bubble economy in the early 1990s, slow fashion has emerged as a counterculture to consumption.”

Tsujita’s reference to the consumer culture of the 1960s to 1980s is an insightful look at the objectives of many Japanese heritage brands we’ve come to love, as the post-war industrial boom tore apart the fabric of Japan’s manufacturing system. With a rich history of artisanal craftspeople who often based their work around the ecosystems and resources that surrounded their specific area, the push for automation and rise of brands like Sony and Toyota suddenly changed the values of many Japanese consumers. A focus on hyper-efficiency meant that many artisans had to adapt. As mentioned by Tsujita though, the 1990s saw a period of recession for Japan which has become known as the Lost Decade. This recession seemed to shatter the illusion of permanent growth for the country, and as a result, refocused many on the more traditional craft techniques that had left behind in the boom. This may be the reason why we see so many heritage brands, Full Count included, with founding dates around this period. “I myself have been aware of the slow life since before that time,” Tsujita explained in reference to the recession, “…and I believe that I have been able to be on the side of the slow fashion movement smoothly.”

The ethos of slow fashion seems to permeate Full Count at every level, and Tsujita explained how he approaches design with this in mind. “Clothes made with a lot of time and effort can be worn for decades…” he explained, “…so I believe that sustainability can be realised by carefully calculating the durability as well as design and functionality that will never get old, and then making them with a focus on handmade products.”

This all brings us to Full Count’s 2024 A/W collection. Taking direct notes from the historical clothing the brand has always been inspired by, this collection has heavy emphasis on workwear from across the globe. Tsujita explained that this collection is created “from practical historical clothing and cultures not only from Japan but from all over the world.” This is evident with the selection of full chore sets in a verity of colours and finishes, including pairs in a deep indigo Wabash on soft corduroy, rich black canvas, and sturdy khaki HBT with subtle pre-aging. Even the grey denim set has a slightly workwear quality, which makes the sleek finish versatile for everyday wear.

Beyond the direct workwear references, the collection also contains a variety of standout pieces that combine a range of global influences into a cohesive vision. The ‘unskilled workers’ denim set evokes WWII rationing and rush for labour with its loose threads, and the patched-up Dartford set pulls from 1960s American biker culture. Taking a trip across the Ocean, it’s clear that the quilted indigo set has a quintessentially Japanese influence, something not often seen in the design of many heritage brands. Tsujita is clear about these influences, pointing out that “…the ancient Japanese happi coat and the handmade feel of the MC jacket…” are designed specifically to give off a vintage feel.

The 2024 A/W collection demonstrates Full Count’s ability to collate a huge range of influences and create a cohesive vision through careful curation and striving for excellent production quality. The garments have a wide breadth without feeling out of place next to each other, and the shift towards a more European workwear style is an exciting step for the brand.

So, what are the next steps for Full Count? In its 30-year history, the label has weathered many challenges, but always stayed true to its core values of quality, thoughtful fashion. In a very logistical sense, Tsujita explained that the companies main challenge currently is scaling up production, emphasising that “In order to maintain a steady supply of our regular products, we will be focusing on expanding our factories and hiring more staff.” When we asked what was next creatively, Tsujita highlighted his love of collaboration, both large and smaller scale, recalling that “the collaboration with Paul Smith was very rewarding… because they felt the same way about our craftsmanship and asked us to join them.” It seems no doubt that more of these collaborations are on the horizon, and the brand seems ready for whatever the future brings. As Tsujita said just as our interview came to a close, “The only thing is to keep doing the same thing, unchanged.”