Fashion

Denim Jacket Types Explained: How They Became So Iconic

Editorial Team

SOAS Creative Dept.

February 09, 2026 /

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The ‘Big 3’ styles of denim jackets have become household names as heritage has worked its way slowly into mainstream fashion, and very few garments have had more influence than the iconic designs of the Type I, Type II, and Type III. Originally developed by Levi’s in the early 1900s, each style was built around a specific function, iterating upon the last to make subtle but important improvements. With choices that reflect the changes in function, fashion, and culture made throughout the 20th century, this guide will trace the history of these jackets and how they affected men’s workwear through their details, offering a fascinating insight into how functionality leads to timeless design.

The Type I Denim Jacket

The Original Workwear Icon

Though Levi’s had been producing denim for some time, the origins of the Type I can be traced back to 1905 with Levi’s 506XX jacket, a utilitarian companion for the brand’s world famous 501XX jean. Cut from the same 9oz fabric as the jeans, the jacket features now instantly recognisable details including the single chest pocket, double pleats which could be unpicked to give the wearer more freedom of movement and cinched back to pull in the waist. Termed ‘number one’ or ‘type 1’ as early as 1917, the jacket saw an original production run until 1952, and experienced 6 major designs in its almost 50-year span. These included the addition of a pocket flap in 1928, the addition of the iconic ‘Big E’ red tab in 1936, and the brief removal of the pocket flap and introduction of donut buttons in an effort to ration during WWII.

The Type I was an instant hit with consumers and workers, with the jackets hardy construction and functional design making it ideal for everyday use, especially in blue collar trades like labourers and ranchers. In the 40s, the jacket gained cultural reach, being worn by celebrities like Bing Crosby as well as being adopted by motorcycle gangs, giving the garment an air of rebelliousness. Phased out by the Type II, this original version sparked a revolution in men’s fashion, traces of which can still be seen in silhouettes today.

Features of the Type I Denim Jacket:

Short boxy cut
Double pleated front
One chest pocket
Cinched back

The Type II Denim Jacket

The Rebel Era of American Style

Hot on the heels of the Type I, the adequately named Type II jacket became Levi’s second jacket to hit production. The changes are subtle but modernise the original cut that America had become used to in the half-century prior. With the country urbanising, and silhouettes growing longer, the Type II is slightly less boxy than its predecessor, and with less need to draw in the waist, the cinch back has been removed in favour of side adjustment tabs. Most noticeably, the singular chest pocket has been given a companion, with this cut sporting dual pockets for more storage.

Though the Type II still has its rugged roots, it’s cultural impact is really what sets the design apart. After WWII, American teenagers idolised the retuning soldiers, who had adapted workwear like denim into their casual clothing. Seeing the rebellious, heroic attitude of these veterans, the youth snapped up denim, which was losing its labour connotation, and picking up a new rebellious one. Some of the biggest stars of the era including Marlon Brando, James Dean, Marlyn Monroe, and probably most famously Martin Sheen, all sported the Type II both on and off screen, cementing the jacket as a pop culture legend with staying power. Despite its popularity, however, the Type II jacket only ran from 1953 to 1962, but it’s short lifecycle re-contextualised how denim could be worn in a man’s wardrobe.